I’m proud to be a Colorado girl. Born and raised in a state that takes unpretentious gratification in its colorful outdoors and being active year round regardless of the season. So when the prospect of climbing Gunung Agung, the highest peak in Bali, presented itself (even though it’s the rainy season), I was completely onboard. What better place than Bali to hike my first volcano and who better to do it with than a friend visiting from my beloved home state?
Eagerly anticipating the 2 am sunrise hike, we went to bed early- headlamps, warm clothes and provisions neatly tucked away in our backpacks. Our guide picked us up a few hours later and we were soon on our way to the sanctified site. Due to the impenetrable cloud cover coupled with a new moon, this most sacred mountain was completely imperceptible; had it not been for the immediate burning in my calves as we began the alleged 3-hour trek up, I may not have believed that we were actually at the base. Gunung Agung is considered the most holy mountain in Bali, which is the only predominantly Hindu area in all of Southeast Asia. A mere 5 minutes into our ascent and our mandatory guide stopped at the undetectable temple to make the first of 3 periodic offerings to the Hindu gods. Incense-and-floral-infused-banana leaf-basket offered, we continued, knowing that the spirits were on our side. It was a tough hike up, especially in the dark. But the benefit to starting so early was that we didn’t have to see the near perpendicular, jagged terrain we would be climbing. Had I been aware of the sheer incline, I may have been more hesitant to continue. But then again, probably not.
A few hours later we paused again to hydrate and make the second woven leaf offering. Above the cloud barrier the stars were unbelievably clear. No light pollution and just the 3 of us on this divine mass. It was an unbelievable feeling; so removed from the chaos of my Javanese urban village. The mountain, still shrouded in pre-dawn darkness, deceptively gave the illusion that we were almost to the top. But as the first light began to illuminate the rice paddied landscape thousands of meters below, our guide informed us that we still had a very vertical climb above the tree line ahead of us. The obscure trail completely disappeared and we were forced to keep up with our mountain goat guide using our hands and shaky foot holds as he seemingly trotted up the mountain without the slightest hint of fatigue.
But we made it! And with only minor aches and signs of weariness as a result of the arduous climb up. We savored our dry bread and hard boiled egg breakfast as we rested at the crater and tried to catch intermittent glimpses of the scenery below as green fields and coastline fleeted in and out of the clouds. We missed sunrise from the top, but I’m not sure we would’ve had the best view anyway. At the peak we were in a deep fog, but it still felt amazing to be at the top of the Balinese world.
Rockin' my School's Neon Sport Uniform at the Top of Gunung Agung with the Fabulous Ashley Gamble
View Into the Crater
Last Offering Overlooking the Crater
After our final incense offering, we embarked on the downward voyage. One look down and I was suddenly struck with bewilderment as to how we managed to maneuver our way up in the first place. I was completely perplexed as to how we were going to get back down. Our guide, however, had no intention of analyzing the most secure route of descent, and once again trotted down the steep rock as I ungracefully slid my way down failing to keep pace. Several bumps, bruises, scratches and shaky muscles later, we still hadn’t made it to the tree line. I looked desperately to my friend who, despite saying that she was also in pain, was keeping fair stride with our guide. “Please call Peace Corps and have them medevac me off the mountain. My legs don’t seem to work anymore, so I think I’ll just stay here.” Where was my Colorado mentality now that I needed it most? The next 5 hours were full of similar sentiments and I cursed my initial enthusiasm for hiking this ridiculously steep mass of volcanic rock. If lava would only start to steadily stream out so I could float atop a hefty shard of rock over the seemingly infinite vastness to the microscopic temple below! Anything would be preferable to trying to use my legs…even luging down scorching molten rock.
Our Guide Getting Ready to Trot Down the Rugged Rock Face
What we Climbed Up. Then Down.
Again, we persevered and somehow endured the drawn out descent. As we walked past the now visible temple, worshipers steadily started to pour out of the ancient structure and glide by me in unimpressive sandals while simultaneously balancing oversized baskets on their heads. I felt completely incompetent at that point and in my state of hostility, vowed that I would never attempt to hike another volcano again. Those feelings have since faded, but at that point in time, the promise was made in all sincerity. I think I just needed a bit more time for the pain to fade in my memory and for the bliss of being back on a mountain to overshadow the resentful recollections of ineptly tumbling down my first volcano.
Beautiful Balinese Girls at the Temple
Balinese Balancing
We spent the remainder of our time in the Agung area recovering in the remote little village of Sideman. We spent the afternoons walking through terraced rice fields sprinkled with tiny Hindu shrines permeated with the scent of strawberry incense and interacting with the local weaving community. Hand-woven shawls and sarongs start upwards from $100 for just 2 meters of the uniquely patterned cloth, and go into the thousands as the design gets more elaborate. Most pieces take months to weave using the wooden hand looms and are then exported and sold to wealthy foreigners abroad. It was incredible to see how quickly and flawlessly these women worked as they explained the process to us.
Weaving and Talking
Weaving in Sideman Village*And thus concludes the first part of my Balinese-Lombokian adventure. Stay tuned for future tales of Christmas, New Years, and near death at the waterfalls*
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